A fashion designer's take on Aesop's formulas

Fashion designer Rick Owens partners with Aesop in March 2022 on a collection built around a signature fragrance called Stoic, alongside a candle and a travel kit assembled from Owens's own favourite Aesop products: Coriander Seed Body Cleanser, Resolute Hydrating Body Balm, Classic Shampoo, and Classic Conditioner.1, 2 The collaboration marks a rare instance of Aesop putting another designer's name directly alongside its own on a named product, a departure from a brand that otherwise develops everything in-house.

Fillion returns as the connecting thread

Owens develops Stoic together with Barnabe Fillion, the French perfumer who has worked on almost all of Aesop's fragrances since beginning his work with the brand a decade earlier, including the 2014 reworking of Marrakech Intense.1, 3 Fillion's presence gives the Owens collaboration technical continuity with Aesop's existing scent library even as the project carries an outside name and an outside aesthetic, blending sharp black pepper and coriander seed with frankincense and patchouli into a scent Owens describes as intended for everyday use rather than as a seasonal statement piece.1

A chain of beads alongside the fragrance

Alongside the Stoic Eau de Toilette, the collaboration pairs the fragrance with a chain of ceramic beads that can be scented and worn, letting the wearer diffuse the fragrance gradually through the day rather than through a single application.1 The format sits closer to a wearable object than a cosmetics product, consistent with Owens's own design practice, and distances the collaboration from the typical prestige fragrance launch format Aesop itself had already avoided with Marrakech nearly two decades earlier.3

Aesop Stoic Candles. Source: Aesop
Aesop Stoic Candles. Source: Aesop

Owens's own account of the appeal

Owens frames the collaboration in personal rather than commercial terms. "I am not sure if it was my body responding positively to the alchemy of the unguents they produce or my head responding to the quiet and gentle aesthetics of their ethos as a company," he says, "but Aesop's balms represented a soothing mood that I wanted to continue seamlessly throughout my home life and my travel life."1, 2 The quote frames the partnership as an extension of Owens's personal use of the brand rather than a licensing deal initiated by either company's marketing department, a framing consistent with how Aesop has described its other outside collaborations.

A designer known for extremes, working inside restraint

The pairing is notable for the contrast between Owens's own reputation, built on stark, avant-garde silhouettes and a deliberately unsettling aesthetic, and Aesop's own house style of plain labelling and understated packaging. Rather than reshaping Aesop's visual identity to match his own, Owens works within the brand's existing formulation and packaging conventions, contributing scent, name, and objects, among them an organic cotton jersey wrap carrying the dual grosgrain strip that is a signature of his own garments, rather than a new visual language for Aesop.4 The result reads as an Aesop product with Owens's authorship attached, not an Owens product wearing Aesop's name.

Aesop Stoic. Source: Aesop
Aesop Stoic. Source: Aesop

One collaborator among a wider fragrance circle

Fillion's own client list beyond Aesop includes a fragrance project with artist Anicka Yi and his own independent fragrance line, Arpa, developed with musicians, glassblowers, and sculptors.1 That breadth situates the Owens collaboration inside a broader pattern in which Aesop's fragrance development draws on a small, consistent circle of outside specialists, brought in for specific formulations and objects rather than for a wholesale reworking of how the brand presents itself.

A limited release, true to the brand's habits

Consistent with how Aesop has handled its other outside collaborations, Stoic launches as a limited edition through Aesop's website, select Aesop stores and select Rick Owens stores, without a defined production timeline extending the fragrance into a permanent line.2, 4 The approach keeps the Owens collaboration positioned as a considered, occasional project rather than the start of a recurring designer-collaboration programme, echoing the same restraint the brand has applied to its store architecture and its earlier fragrance launches.

A departure that still respects the house rules

Even as it puts a designer's name on the label, the collaboration stays inside boundaries Aesop rarely crosses: no separate retail concept, no dedicated store fixture, no advertising campaign built around Owens's celebrity. The project remains a product collaboration rather than a brand crossover, keeping Aesop's own name, packaging conventions, and distribution channels intact while adding a single outside voice to one specific release.

Written with AI assistance, edited by a human. Find out more about our Use of AI.


1. Wallpaper*, Mary Cleary, "Rick Owens launches a fragrance in collaboration with Aesop", 22 March 2022, off whitelist, the primary account from which the verse is written: for the collection of a candle and a travel kit made up of Owens's favourite Aesop products (Coriander Seed Body Cleanser, Resolute Hydrating Body Balm, Classic Shampoo and Classic Conditioner), for the signature perfume Stoic created with perfumer Barnabe Fillion and its chain of ceramic beads that can be perfumed and worn to diffuse the scent throughout the day, for Fillion having worked with Aesop on almost all of its fragrances, for the notes of black pepper and coriander seed with frankincense and patchouli and Owens wanting a fragrance fit for everyday use, for the quoted words of Rick Owens, and for Fillion's work with artist Anicka Yi and his own fragrance line Arpa, which enlists musicians, glassblowers and sculptors. https://www.wallpaper.com/beauty-grooming/rick-owens-aesop-collaberation

2. RUSSH, Ella Jane, "Rick Owens collaborates with Aesop on a candle", 21 March 2022, for the collection launching on 21 March 2022 as a candle, a Stoic Eau de Toilette and a travel kit holding Owens's favoured formulations (Coriander Seed Body Cleanser, Resolute Hydrating Body Balm, Classic Shampoo and Classic Conditioner), for the quoted words of Rick Owens, which the page gives verbatim as issued in a press release, and for the collection being a limited edition sold through Aesop's website, select Aesop stores and select Rick Owens stores. Off whitelist and used for corroboration only. https://www.russh.com/where-to-buy-rick-owens-aesop-collaboration/

3. Aesop, The Aesop Library, "A history of fragrance", undated (page updated 6 April 2026), for Aesop's working relationship with the French perfumer Barnabe Fillion beginning in 2012, for Fillion deconstructing and rebuilding the brand's first fragrance into Marrakech Intense, launched in 2014, and for the original Marrakech Eau de Toilette dating from 2005. Added during the footnote retrofit. https://www.aesop.com/library/history-of-fragrance-at-aesop.html

4. FashionUnited, Danielle Wightman-Stone, "Rick Owens and Aesop launch limit-edition collaboration", 22 March 2022, for the collection being a limited edition available through Aesop's website and in select Aesop and Rick Owens stores worldwide, and for the organic cotton jersey wrap, worn as a wrist-wrap or bandana, with a co-branded dual grosgrain strip that the page calls a signature of Owens's garments. Off whitelist and used for corroboration only. https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/rick-owens-and-aesop-launch-limit-edition-collaboration/2022032262188