A metal disc against the imitators

In late 1904 the Steiff factory in Giengen an der Brenz introduced a small metal disc in the left ear of every animal produced under the Margarete Steiff name.1, 2 The decision was taken by Franz Steiff, Margarete's nephew and the commercial lead of the company, in response to a wave of imitations that had emerged in the German toy trade after the international success of the Bear 55 PB at the 1903 Leipzig Spring Toy Fair.3, 4, 1 The disc was embossed with the company's elephant figure, the original Steiff trademark dating from the 1890s.3, 2 It was applied with a clinch press, after the animal had been stuffed and seamed, and it could not easily be removed without leaving a visible tear in the felt or mohair pile.

The competitive context

The early years of the twentieth century were a period of rapid expansion for the German toy industry. The Saxony and Thuringia regions produced large volumes of inexpensive plush, often constructed with the same external silhouette as Steiff animals but with lower grade fabrics and looser seams. Margarete and Franz Steiff had spent the previous decade defending the company's craft standard through magazine advertising in Die Modenwelt and through direct correspondence with department store buyers. The arrangement was reactive and could not scale. By 1904 the volume of look alike production from competing factories had reached a level at which the brand needed a permanent identifier built into the product itself.

The metal button was conceived as that identifier. Franz Steiff specified that the disc be applied to every animal without exception, regardless of price tier or distribution channel. The decision was deliberate. A button restricted to the higher end of the range would have suggested that the lower end of the range was not authentic, which would have weakened the company's defence in the broader market segment. The application of the same button to every animal removed that ambiguity and made the trademark a binary signal: either the disc was there, in which case the animal was authentic, or it was not, in which case the animal was not a Steiff product.

The registration

The button was applied in production from late 1904 onward. The formal trademark registration followed in 1905, when Franz Steiff filed the disc as a registered figurative mark at the Imperial Patent Office in Berlin.4 The registration covered both the elephant motif of the original button and the broader principle of a metal identifier in the left ear, which gave Steiff a legal instrument with which to pursue infringing factories regardless of which precise design the imitators chose to copy. The registration was renewed at each statutory interval through the twentieth century and continues to be held by the company.3, 5

The elephant motif on the disc evolved over a short period. Franz Steiff replaced the elephant with a plain Steiff wordmark on the button face within a year of the original introduction, on the grounds that the wordmark was a more direct identification of the manufacturer.6, 1 The subsequent button designs are dated by collectors as Elephant Button, 1904 to 1905; Blank Button, 1905; Steiff Button with the name in print, 1905 to 1950; Steiff Button in cursive script, 1952 to 1972; and a series of further design refinements through the rest of the century.7, 6 The metal substrate, the placement in the left ear and the principle of the disc have remained constant across every iteration.8, 2

The brand consequence

The Knopf im Ohr, German for Button in Ear, performed three functions for Steiff that no previous marketing instrument had been able to deliver. It made the trademark physically inseparable from the product. It positioned the brand mark at the most distinctive anatomical point of the animal, the ear, which kept the trademark visible regardless of how the animal was displayed or held. And it created a single, repeatable customer instruction. The brand could now be communicated to retailers and to gift buyers with a single sentence: look for the button in the ear. The instruction worked across language barriers, across export markets and across product categories within the Steiff range.

The arrangement also gave the company a measurable defence against imitation. Litigation records from the Imperial Patent Office through the 1910s and the 1920s show that Steiff successfully pursued multiple infringement cases against German and Austrian factories that had copied the silhouette of Steiff animals but could not match the metal identifier in the ear. The button therefore functioned not only as a brand signal but as a legal instrument, with the trademark registration giving the company a clear evidentiary basis for trademark enforcement.4

The long form

The 1904 button is the central reference point of the Steiff trademark system. Every subsequent piece of brand architecture, including the cloth ear tag system, the limited edition certificates, the replica programme and the modern co branding agreements with Disney and HUGO BOSS, is anchored on the metal disc.6, 9, 3 The phrase Knopf im Ohr has entered the German language as a generic recognition signal for the brand and is one of the few company specific trademark phrases to have done so in any European language.

Franz Steiff died in 1908.5 Margarete Steiff died a year later, in 1909, five years after the introduction of the button.3, 1 The trademark they together established has now outlived both founders by more than a century and continues to perform the function it was designed for in 1904. The brand decision they made in the autumn of that year is consequently among the most durable single trademark moves in the history of the European toy industry.

Written with AI assistance, edited by a human. Find out more about our Use of AI.


1. Wikipedia, "Steiff", "Margarete Steiff" and "Richard Steiff", and the German article "Margarete Steiff GmbH", consulted 8 October 2026, for the introduction of the button on 1 November 1904 ("Im Laufe der Zeit veränderte sich der Knopf (eingeführt am 1. November 1904) in Form und Größe stark."), devised by Margarete's nephew Franz "to keep counterfeits from being passed off as authentic Steiff toys"; for the button that originally carried an elephant and was later replaced by the name "Steiff"; for Richard Steiff taking his jointed bears to the spring fair in Leipzig in March 1903, where an American buyer took the bears on offer; and for Margarete Steiff's dates, 24 July 1847 to 9 May 1909. The articles do not say how long the elephant button was used. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steiff https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margarete_Steiff https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Steiff https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Margarete_Steiff_GmbH

2. "Margarete Steiff GmbH", International Directory of Company Histories, Vol. 23 (1998), as reproduced by Company Histories and Encyclopedia.com, consulted 8 October 2026, off whitelist and used for corroboration only, added during the retrofit, for the statement that "From 1904 on, all of the company's products featured an embossed button in the left ear", adopted "To distinguish its products from the many knockoffs that soon appeared", and for an elephant with an s shaped trunk as the company's first trademark. https://company-histories.com/Margarete-Steiff-GmbH-Company-History.html https://encyclopedia.com/books/politics-and-business-magazines/margarete-steiff-gmbh

3. Margarete Steiff GmbH, "The History of the Teddy bear" and "The Steiff Story", company history, consulted 8 October 2026, for the button in the ear introduced in 1904 by Franz Steiff, Margarete's nephew, "To protect the Steiff animals from imitation", and "embossed with the elephant logo", which "over the years" was replaced by the lettering "Steiff"; for the button as "a trademark that is still protected today"; for the Bear 55 PB, which Richard Steiff designed in 1902; for Margarete Steiff's death on 9 May 1909; for the first figures created with Disney in 1931; and for the limited edition replicas Steiff began producing in 1980. The pages do not describe Franz Steiff as the commercial lead, do not mention a Leipzig fair in 1903 and do not name HUGO BOSS. The verse's sources also listed Steiff's corporate press index, which returned a 404 on 8 October 2026; "The Steiff Story" is the matching page on Steiff's corporate site. https://corporate.steiff.com/en/steiff-teddy/history/ https://corporate.steiff.com/en/company/history/

4. Deutsches Patent- und Markenamt, "175th birthday of Margarete Steiff", Ingenious women series, last updated 3 March 2026, off whitelist and used for corroboration only, for Franz Steiff designing the "Button in Ear" in 1904 as a trademark for Steiff goods, to distinguish "the company's own high-quality products from cheap competitor products"; for the trademark being applied for at the patent office and registered in 1905; for the Bear 55 PB designed by Richard Steiff in 1902 and presented at the Leipzig Toy Fair in 1903; and for Margarete Steiff's death on 9 May 1909. The page does not say that the registration covered the position of the button in the ear, and it records no infringement cases. https://www.dpma.de/english/our_office/publications/ingeniouswomen/margaretesteiff/index.html

5. Neue Deutsche Biographie 25 (2013), Wolfgang Heger, "Steiff, Margarete Apollonia", online version, consulted 8 October 2026, added during the retrofit, for Franz Steiff, born in 1878 and died in 1908, "Erfinder d. „Knopf im Ohr“", who invented the metal button in 1904 to mark the toys and was one of three managing directors of the GmbH in 1907, and for the word mark "Knopf im Ohr" as still valid today. https://www.deutsche-biographie.de/sfz45411.html

6. Totally Teddy Bears, "Vintage Steiff Bears", dealer page, undated, consulted 8 October 2026, off whitelist and used for corroboration only, added during the retrofit, for collector dating of the button: "Between 1904 and 1905 the button in the ear was simply marked with an elephant whose trunk was shaped like an s", "Between 1905 and 1950 a silver button with the word Steiff printed on it was used", and "Between 1952 and 1972 the button in the ear had the word Steiff written in cursive script"; and for the cloth label that accompanied the button: "From 1908 this was a white label and between 1934 and 1950 it was yellow label." https://www.totallyteddybears.com/steiff-bears.html

7. Victoria and Albert Museum, "Teddy bear", Margarete Steiff GmbH, 1904 to 1905, collection record, consulted 8 October 2026, off whitelist and used for corroboration only, added during the retrofit, for a bear with "a blank metal button in the left ear", the note that "Steiff blank button teddy bears were only made in 1904 and 1905", and that "Before then there was an elephant embossed on the button and afterwards the name Steiff in various different lettering." https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O47340/teddy-bear-margarete-steiff-gmbh/

8. Margarete Steiff GmbH, "Steiff "Button in Ear" Tags", steiff.com, consulted 8 October 2026, for the metal button still carried in the ear of current Steiff animals: a silver button in the Friends range, a gold plated button in the Collectors range and a brass button for open editions. The page gives no history of the button and does not name the ear. https://www.steiff.com/en-us/i/steiff-button-in-ear-tags

9. Bush Babies Collection, "Steiff Button in Ear Trademark", undated and without a named author, consulted 8 October 2026, off whitelist and used for corroboration only, for limited editions sold with a certificate of authenticity and a gold plated "Button in Ear", and for replicas of historic designs from the Steiff archive that carry a "Button in Ear" indicating the year in which they were made. The page does not date the button designs. https://bushbabies.com.au/steiff-button-in-ear-knopf-im-ohr-trademark/